Discovering Myanmar

Myanmar was the first of the Southeast Asian countries we visited after leaving Japan. The country only recently opened its doors to foreigners, and our goal was to try to get a first-hand look at the history and culture before it was diluted down by hordes of tourists. Unsurprisingly, we definitely found it to be a country still maturing as a tourist destination, but it’s kind people, devout beliefs, revered pagodas and ample buddhas made for an interesting visit. Add to that its rich biodiversity, and Myanmar offered the opportunity to visit a beautiful country that retains its heritage and shows unabashed charm in it’s welcoming of foreigners. 

Myanmar was also the start of our own realization of our collective needs as a nomadic family and our individual differences as travelers...

First, more research before heading into a country would have been good, and while we excused our lack of preparation with the claim that we had “too much to do,” Glenn and I agreed that a perusal of the Wikipedia page was minimally required reading for everyone. Second, we had varying levels of patience for touring, and we quickly realized that planned breaks at the hotel were key to recharging and enabling us to actually enjoy and absorb what we were learning. Finally, it was clear that I am more of a geek than others in my family, as I asked question after question and was excited by each new site, while the rest of the crew rolled their eyes and muffled sighs. However, with over 3,000 pagodas in Bagan alone, even I hit pagoda fatigue. More than anything, I was fascinated by the people and their history, and how the influence of British rule and changes over the last 100-150 years still have a lasting impact on the country (see more below on my summary of what I learnt). I also loved being immersed in the history of and beliefs of the Buddha that are such a huge part of this country’s society.

For anyone planning a visit to Myanmar, a stop in Bagan is a must. With 3,226 pagodas and stupas littering the landscape, this ancient city retains much of its traditional ways and is in sharp contrast to other larger cities. And despite the inevitable “pagoda fatigue,” as previously mentioned, there is nothing quite like sitting atop of an ancient pagoda, watching the sunset against the backdrop of hundreds of brick monuments and temples dotting the landscape as far as the eye can see. A stop in Mandalay after Bagan showed the impact of heavy tourist traffic and “modernization;” we far preferred Bagan, but it was interesting to see the contrast. Ending the trip in the capital of Yangon, the boys cried mercy and wouldn’t budge to see any more temples, but I was able to drag Kylie along for one more look (the boys didn’t miss much). 

From Yangon, we flew to Kawthoung, where we boarded a sailboat for a glorious 5 nights through the beautiful Mergui Archipelago. The turquoise blue waters and baby powder soft white sand beaches were like nothing we had ever seen before. In addition to some amazing snorkeling, we got a wonderful glimpse into the lives of the Moken people, nomadic sea gypsies that live on the water and have unusual abilities, such as holding their breathe for up to 4 minutes while diving for fish and having clear underwater vision. Interacting with and hearing the laughter of the Moken children was one of my favorite experiences of the trip thus far. So, though there were many complaints about the redundancy of the pagodas, stupas and temples in Myanmar, I think everyone agreed that the “vacation” portion of the trip made up for the educational pain of the first week*. I would also like to think the latter portion of our trip was that much richer having learnt a bit about the people, their traditions and the recent history. 

Synopsis of Myanmar History (at least what I heard)
Myanmar, or Burma as it was long called, officially opened it’s doors to tourists in 2010 (??). Though the country gained its independence from Britain in 1948, after a series of corruption-riddled attempts in the early 1940s and the assassination of General Aung San who led the independence efforts, economic recovery efforts were marred by in-fighting. In 1962 the country succumbed to military rule for nearly 50 years, and from the tight-lipped party line of many we spoke with, it was clear that the people of Myanmar could still feel the sting of that oppression. In 2010, the country transitioned to a democratic government with the election of Aung San Suu Kyi, the daughter of General Aung San. An example of the complications of merging modern day democracy theories with long-standing transitions and constitutions, Aung San Suu Kyi is not the President of the country given her marriage to an American, but instead holds the role of State Counselor. She hand picked the person who holds the title of President, but it is largely understood that she controls the government. I especially loved the rise of a female to power given the turbulent past and the influence I assume her father’s life had on her ambitions and accomplishments. Much of this was pieced together from conversations with various guides and people we met, and it was clear that there was a general recalcitrance in discussing politics (the Do’s and Don’t’s published by the government suggest that foreigners NOT discuss politics, and it was clear this was largely taken to heart). That said, it was also clear that there was pride in the history and what has recently transpired.

*Footnote: Brady claims the boat did not make up for the misery of the incessant pagodas. It’s as though he thinks this is only a vacation :).